Insiders’ guide to US national parks

“20 Lakes Basin, Yosemite NP, California

Thank heavens most visitors to Yosemite don’t think outside the box – or the park boundary. This keeps the crowds down in places like the 20 Lakes Basin, a glacial lake wonderland near some of the Sierras’ highest peaks. From the Tioga Pass entrance station, drive two miles north-east and turn left up the dirt road to Saddlebag Lake.

Then hike the nine-mile 20 Lakes Basin loop trail which winds through meadows swathed in wildflowers to some of the region’s most spectacular lakes. At the end of the day, drive down Highway 120 to the town of Lee Vining and the Whoa Nellie Deli. Unpromisingly located inside a Mobil Gas station, the deli serves some of the best food in the Yosemite region: buffalo meatloaf, grilled pork tenderloin, fish tacos, chicken jambalaya – all post-hike meals you’ll find yourself dreaming about on the trail for years to come.
Fly to Fresno Yosemite Airport
Stay at Curry Village, within the park, tent cabins from $95
Danny Palmerlee, author of Lonely Planet’s guide to Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

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Volcano biking, Hawaii Volcanoes NP

Kilauea volcano has been erupting pretty much constantly since 1983, creating a moonscape of lava fields, smoking craters, cinder cones and steam vents. Most tourists satisfy themselves with a quick drive around the crater rim, stopping for photos at the viewing points, but if you really want to smell the sulphur, feel the heat of the lava and hear the hissing of the steam vents, a bike tour is perfect. A classic ride – mostly downhill – starts at the summit of Kilauea where you can explore the rim of the caldera on off-road trails before dropping through rainforest to a 500-year-old lava tube. Then it’s on to Chain of Craters Road for a freewheel down to the coast where you can sometimes see lava pouring into the ocean in the distance.
Fly to Kona airport, a three-hour drive from the park
Stay at Volcano Village Lodge, from $195, or camp for free
Gwendolyn Hill, president, tour operator Volcano Bike Tours, Hawaii

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Point Sublime, Grand Canyon NP, Arizona

Forget the guard rails, car parks, visitor centres and lodges. If you want to see the Grand Canyon as it used to be, head for the North Rim village, hire a sturdy 4WD and take the 16-mile, restricted-access trail to Point Sublime. It was named by the first surveyor of the Colorado plateau, Captain Clarence Dutton, who described it as “the sublimest thing on earth”. It’s a tough trip on rough roads through the vast Kaibab national forest. But the rewards are breathtaking.
Fly to Grand Canyon Airport, Tusayan
Stay at The Grand Hotel, from $169, or the Grand Canyon Lodge cabins(grandcanyonlodgenorth.com) in North Rim, from $118
Roly Smith, author of National Parks of Britain

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Ancient petroglyphs, Saguaro NP, Arizona

The park is named after the giant saguaro cactus forest, unique to the Sonoran desert. But, for me, the real highlight is the ancient petroglyphs at Signal Hill. It’s a little off the beaten path – you have to take a dirt road known as the Bajada Loop Drive, but it’s a short trip to make a journey 1,000 years back in time. It’s believed the Hohokam people carved these images and patterns into boulders while on hunting and gathering expeditions. Nobody knows what they mean: they may be solstice markers, clan symbols, decorative motifs or simply ancient graffiti.
Fly to Tucson airport
Stay at The Suncatcher Inn, (suncatchertucson.com), from $115, or camp at the Gillbert Ray Campground, the closest to the park, from $10
Bob Love, chief ranger

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Beach camping, Olympic NP, Washington

Shi Shi beach is the most beautiful in the Pacific north-west, but you can reach it only on foot or by kayak (for expert paddlers – it’s very exposed). From the town of Neah Bay, follow the footpath through forest for two miles to a sweeping stretch of sand. It can get busy on summer weekends but at other times you may have it to yourself. There are campsites in the woods or you can camp on the beach (make sure you’re above high-tide line). The Point of Arches is a system of towering sea stacks and arches to explore at low tide. In spring and autumn you may see a grey whale, and the sunsets are unforgettable.
Fly to Seattle/Tacoma airport
Stay at One of the campsites, from $10 (see nps.gov/olym), or on the beach
Tammi Hinkle, owner, tour operator Adventures Through Kayaking, Port Angeles, Washington

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Snorkelling and camping, Dry Tortugas NP, Florida

I was inspired to visit the Dry Tortugas by an aerial photograph I saw of Fort Jefferson, a hexagonal fortress that appears to be floating in the ocean. Originally built to protect the Florida Straits, it was later used as a military prison. It’s now a seabird sanctuary and the focal point for this national park. The main attraction lies in the sea – angelfish, barracuda, parrotfish, colourful coral and the turtles that inspired its name. Ferries and seaplanes make the 70-mile trip from Key West, but once the day trippers leave, you can camp on the beach (permits required) and have the islands to yourself. You’ll see lots of marine life by snorkelling or even in the seawater moat. It’s a world away from Florida’s sweaty cities and themeparks.
Fly to Miami International airport
Stay at The Dry Tortugas beach campsite ($3). Contact +1 305 242 7700 for a permit application
Jeremy Cuff, underwater photographer and contributor to Sport Diver magazine

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Greenstone Ridge Trail, Isle Royale NP, Michigan

Isle Royale is a roadless archipelago in Lake Superior on the Canadian border. One of two national parks accessible only by water, it offers a real wilderness experience. Take a seaplane to Rock Harbor or Windigo and follow the Greenstone Ridge Trail, a 40-mile hike along the spine of the island, which takes four or five days. By day you can look for signs of moose, pick berries in the forest or fish in one of the many inland lakes. Camp at one of the designated wilderness campgrounds and listen for the sound of wolves calling. At Rock Harbor a “water taxi” can carry hikers back to their starting point.
Fly to Minneapolis St Paul airport
Stay at One of the Isle Royale campsites for free, or at Rock Harbor Lodge, from $223
Nathan Hanks, park ranger

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Saline Valley Warm Springs, Death Valley NP, California

Miles of rough track take you well away from Death Valley’s asphalt roads. Just as you begin to worry you’re lost, you see a bunch of palms in the haze. No mirage, this really is a desert oasis with warm springs irrigating lawns occasionally dotted with pink plastic flamingoes. Dozens of people come for long weekends in spring and autumn, set up little campsite fiefdoms and spend the days chilling out in the hot pools. A cooler full of beer is usually at hand, though swimming attire typically isn’t.
Fly to Las Vegas McCarran airport
Stay at Saline Valley Hot Springs campsite (first come, first served), or at Furnace Creek Resort in Death Valley from $128
Paul Whitfield, co-author, Rough Guide to California (£14.99)

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Amtrak’s Empire Builder, Glacier NP, Montana

Many of America’s national parks were created by railroads, and “Trails & Rails” guides often board trains to share their knowledge. Amtrak’s Empire Builder, for instance, crosses Glacier national park (celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2010) and allows exploration of a national park without a car. The train, from Chicago to Seattle, stops at East Glacier Park in summer, allowing you to hike directly into the park. To be sure of seeing the spectacular Rocky Mountain vistas by daylight, travel in the summer or take an eastbound train.
Fly to Glacier Park airport
Stay Glacier Park Rising Sun cabins, $119
John Pitt, author, USA by Rail ” (via  guardian.co.uk) Compiled by Louise Dale

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