Determined to track down the old chap? You won’t be alone. The cobblestones teem with fans seeking their hero. Some actually think he was real.
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It was a chilly Friday morning when I stood in the shadow of London’s 17th century St. Paul’s Cathedral, which drips with history…
This is where such figures as Lord Horatio Nelson and Christopher Wren are entombed. It’s also where the city’s most famous detective — not everyone regards him as fictional — runs amok in the new movie “Sherlock Holmes,” which opened last Friday…
Created by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle more than 120 years ago and the subject of hundreds of film interpretations ever since, Sherlock Holmes is still the world’s favorite private investigator…
And despite his questionable claims to existence,
legions of fans flock to London every year to soak up his back story. On a recent visit, I wielded my virtual magnifying glass and set off in search of the great man.
In the action-packed movie, starring Robert Downey Jr. as Sherlock and Jude Law as Dr. Watson, the exterior of St. Paul’s appears with shiny carriages trundling past like today’s double-decker buses.
But when the story shifts to the landmark’s interior, the filmmakers moved to a nearby church that has a long career as a movie stand-in for less accessible sites.
Tucked along a hidden Smithfield passageway — an ideal place for a fog-bound encounter with a London ne’r-do-well — St. Bartholomew the Great is even older than St. Paul’s and has appeared in movies as diverse as “The Other Boleyn Girl” and “Four Weddings and a Funeral.” In “Holmes,” it portrays the crypt of St. Paul’s, and during a quiet moment on my visit, I chatted with twinkle-eyed verger Phil Stewart about the recent shoot.
“There were 30 or 40 crew members here for three days, and they had to clear away all the pews,” said Stewart. “Law and Downey had their own trailers, and I remember that Law was always on his phone in the courtyard between takes. Guy Ritchie [the director] was very nice, and he was often practicing his guitar when they weren’t shooting.”
After perusing the church’s handsome Norman architecture, I hopped on the Underground to Baker Street station — a Holmes pilgrimage spot.
Even the station’s wall tiles are adorned with pipe-wielding silhouettes. I joined the throng outside photographing a towering statue of the detective in contemplative pose. It was unveiled by the Sherlock Holmes Society of London in 1999, and it’s a not-too-subtle clue that this is the heart of Sherlockville.
Luckily, there’s no mad-eyed Hound of the Baskervilles, but there is a street address where, according to the books, Holmes once lived.
A short stroll away, I pushed through the heavy door of 221b Baker Street to find the charming Sherlock Holmes Museum.
Like all of London’s “house” museums, this one celebrates its namesake with re-created period rooms and antiques, all reminders of a life well lived.
Ascending the town house’s narrow, creaky staircase, I entered a cozy-looking Victorian parlor where I met the man himself, standing at his fireplace in a faded smoking jacket.
The elderly gent, also known as actor Stewart Quentin Holmes, turned out to be a warm, talkative fellow with a deep appreciation for Sherlockian mythology.
” (via latimes.com) by John Lee
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