Posted by Seth on January 31, 2011 under Dining, Trip Reports |
There are many reasons that the Augustiner Bräustübl in Salzburg holds the reputation it does as one of the world’s premier beer halls. It benefits from have served as a monastery in a previous life and the architecture, both inside and out, show off that legacy. It is also huge, attracting folks across a broad range of ages and drinking inclinations. There’s something for everyone and it all wonderful.
Head in the main door and down the grand staircase to find the food shops. While beer can be acquired either self-service or through waiter service (an extra €0.50 per beer) the food is strictly self-service. Most of the options focus on the traditional cuisine of the region – there were more different types of pork presented than any one set of arteries should have the joy of experiencing – and covered salads, main dishes and there’s even a bakery offering up desserts.

There are several different rooms in the building, each offering up a slightly different take on the brauhaus experience. Smoking or non, loud and rowdy or quiet and calm, every taste can be served, though apparently not everyone actually goes for the room with the vibe that they prefer.
At one point the table next to ours (and ours as well, by association) received a visit from a manager suggesting that perhaps things should be a bit calmer so as to not upset other customers in the room. Perhaps the several rounds of schnapps shots amidst the liters of beer had something to do with that. The fact that we were in one of the louder, rowdier rooms and still being shushed was particularly awkward.
We managed to relax on Sunday evening in one of the more quiet rooms and sing songs that are quite certainly not appropriate in mixed company We were already laughing pretty hard when we realized that the older crowd at the table next to us actually asked us to sing them again. It turns out that they had absolutely no idea what the words we were singing meant and they just thought we sounded good and that we were having a good time so they were encouraging the mirth. Needless to say that I’m quite hopeful the videos made of said singing (of which I own one) will remain in private collections.

Whether you’re there for a slab of pork belly or a schnitzel, a sausage or kertoffelsalat, beer or schnapps, a rowdy night or just pre-gaming before hitting the clubs, the Augustiner is the place to end up in Salzburg. Assuming you remember to stop drinking at an appropriate point you’ll be glad you did.
Food ranges in price from €2-12 depending on what you’re ordering and how much you get (some stuff is sold by the kilo). Beers are €2.90 for a half liter and €5.80 for a liter; waiter service adds €0.50 on to the beer prices. If you choose the self-service beer option just follow the crowds to the huge shelf of steins, rinse one out, pay for your beer at the cashier and present the receipt at the keg. Piece of cake. There are sodas available, too, but I have no idea how much they cost. Probably more than the beer.
Posted by Seth on January 31, 2011 under Dining, Trip Reports |
Certainly every travel journey varies a bit from what the guide books or expectations offer up. Things change and it is not possible to be 100% accurate all of the time. Still, there were a few things that were consistently wrong in our trip through Marrakesh last month, things that any informed traveler should know are simply not true.
- If you wear jeans you’ll stand out as a tourist. You’re going to stand out as a tourist no matter what you do. Choosing to wear jeans or not will have no bearing on that fact. On top of that, WAY more locals were wearing jeans than not. Maybe that advice was sound 10 or 20 years ago but it simply has no basis in reality today. If you’re hanging out a lot outside of touristy areas then maybe – MAYBE – it matters. But odds are you aren’t so just wear what you’re comfortable in, though I’d still recommend avoiding shorts or short skirts unless you want to offend the locals and look like a tool.
The souks offer great shopping. There are tons of shops throughout the souks. They all have lots of stuff for sale. But they are mostly all the same tchotchkes. We actually watched a delivery guy with a huge box of lacquered wooden boxes stopping at a number of shops selling the same, trying to convince the proprietors to buy his version to sell in their shops. Not a lot of unique, hand-made goods to be found.
There were some, to be certain. There were guys hammering on small metal plates and some hand-turning wood to make other tchotchkes. I’m pretty sure they were even selling some of that stuff in their shops. The vast majority of the stuff for sale, however, was just more junk. I‘m not big into shopping so maybe I’m just bitter, but I didn’t find the shopping particularly compelling. A touch better than Otavalo, but not much. At least it was obvious that some of the goods – most notably the fabrics – were made in the Medina, though I’m sure it would also be possible to find plenty that were imported just based on the volume on display.
- “This” is a map of the Medina. There are things approximating maps of the Medina area. Actually, the maps included in the Time Out Shortlist Marrakech are pretty decent (and the book is small enough to fit in a pocket, which is nice). They show most of the main paths pretty well. But there are points on those maps that simply peter out into gray that aren’t dead ends; they are simply where the maps become too confusing to maintain. That doesn’t mean you’ll manage to avoid walking down those alleys, just that you’ll likely get lost once you do.
There are other maps, too. The Riad we stayed at gave us one. It was much more detailed than that in the guide book. So much so that it was useless. We couldn’t figure out which of the many parallel paths we were on or where to turn for anything useful. And none of the maps we had labeled the streets particularly well. Then again, that wasn’t too much of an issue since the streets generally aren’t signed with names either. So there you have it. There are no maps of the Medina and anyone claiming otherwise is lying.
- You can only eat tagines or cous cous. To be fair, most of the food options are tagine and cous cous. Nearly all of them, in fact. But that doesn’t mean that they are the only things available. Indeed, over the four nights we spent in town we uncovered a number of other dining options that were quite pleasing and most definitely not a tagine nor a cous.
There are a wide variety of salads on offer in Marrakesh, none of which are slow cooked or cous-based. The salads were actually one of the highlights of the dining experience, fresh and flavorful. They also came as anywhere from six to nine small servings of different items, keeping the flavors changing and taste buds alive and guessing. Some of the veggies were roasted and mushed up along with a bit of olive oil and some spices. Others were just freshly chopped and served au natural. Either way they were delicious.
A number of the restaurants we ate at also had other entrees available. A lamb chop, seasoned and grilled to perfection, for example. Or seafood options like shrimp-filled summer rolls (we had both of these at Foundouk, along with some killer cocktails). Foundouk actually has a pretty solid selection of French options to go along with a couple tagines on the menu. Certainly not your average Marrakesh meal, either in price or menu selection, but well worth the minor premium and nearly getting lost wandering the random alleys to find the place and actually getting lost on the way home.
The other option for meals in Marrakech is the Jemma El Fna. Food stalls appear every evening and the choices are very much not tagine or cous cous. Depending on which vendor you choose the options range from delicious sausages to grilled fish or prawns to offal options, like lamb’s brain. Sure, there are questionable hygiene standards at the stalls (definitely do NOT drink anything that isn’t from a sealed container) but the food was outstanding. Pick the vendor based on the crowd they’ve attracted, not the barkers trying to pull you in, and odds are that you’ll do OK. Desserts in the El Fna were also quite delectable, particularly the ginger-mint tea.
And finally, not that it matters too much, but the tagines were often pretty darn good. When the lamb is this tender and the apricots this sweet I don’t mind the same thing a couple times in a row.
- That way is closed. This is a tough one because there actually is a slim chance it is true. The main paths in the Medina simply do not close. The smaller alleyways, however, can. These paths that close are truly the smallest of the small, essentially shops that happen to have a path through them rather than proper paths that you are likely to be walking down. They do close at night in some cases.
The path you are walking on, however, isn’t closed up ahead unless you really, really, really are lost. If you have even a smidgen of an idea of where you are then that turn you are taking almost certainly is just fine. Simply ignore the kids on the corner. They are going to do their best to convince you that they know where you are going and that you are going the wrong way or that the path you are taking is closed. And that’s before they actually know where you are going.
Even without a decent map navigating the Medina in Marrakesh is pretty easy, so long as you are staying on the main paths and heading to the main sights. Don’t get me wrong, we got lost the first time through, partly because we believed the kid telling us one path was closed. After that we were just fine and actually found navigating it pretty easy. Deviate at your own discretion, but do not do so because the kid on the corner said the path is closed. He’s almost certainly lying.
Marrakesh is a great place to spend a few days, enjoying the local hospitality, food and sights. Just remember that not everything is as it seems or as it is presented and you’ll do just fine.
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Posted by Seth on January 30, 2011 under Dining, Flying, News |
Continental Airlines made a bit of news in October when they finally discontinued their offering of complimentary "meals at meal times" on most domestic flights. The original announcement, made in March 2010, included the caveat that flights over 6 hours would still receive complimentary food. Once they realized that the transcon flights from Newark were included in that caveat it was adjusted to 6.5 hours, meaning all flights in the lower 48 were Food4Sale only.
But at least the longest domestic flights – Honolulu to Houston and Newark and Anchorage to Houston – were still offering complimentary meals. Not any more.


Effective March 1, 2011 (based on published timetable data) the Honolulu flights will switch to the Food4Sale options in coach. This brings Continental in line with merger partner United Airlines which has offered BoB for their Hawaii flights for a couple years now. It isn’t much of a surprise but it is certainly disappointing as a customer to see one more decent in-flight product degraded.
The silver lining on this change is that customers will arguably have more choices and better food in flight. Assuming that there is actually enough catered for everyone to eat, of course. If you’ve got a seat assignment in the back of the plane there is a very real chance that dinner could be a can of Pringles.
Next up will likely be the reallocation of aircraft to have domestic-configured planes operating the Hawaii routes, replacing the current BusinessFirst configured flights. It will be quite interesting to see if the combined carrier continues to try to extract a premium for the HNL service in the pointy end of the plane if they also cut one of the main attractions of that service, the big recliner seat.
The Houston-Anchorage flights still show complimentary food when the seasonal non-stop returns this summer but I’m betting that’s just an oversight or a system update that hasn’t been loaded yet.
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Posted by Seth on January 28, 2011 under News |
Sure, nobody likes to pay the various fees that airlines seem to come up with on a daily basis. Still, as much as folks complain about paying the fees it is clear that they are being paid. And some of them are being paid more willingly than others.
In the case of JetBlue, just one of those fee categories – the upcharge for "Even More Legroom" seats – accounted for $85MM of revenue. Considering the net profit for the year was $97MM it can be said that the incremental fees are the difference between profitability and not for the airline. Breaking down just what the impact of EML sales are for the company provides some interesting numbers.
On the Embraer 190 aircraft there are only 4 EML seats available; on the Airbus 320 aircraft there are 36. A lot of fuzzy math going on because I don’t have inside data on the actual fleet operations but generally speaking one can say that about a third of the 600 daily departures are operated by the E90s and the other two-thirds are operated by the A320s.
That’s somewhere in the range of 15,000 EML seats flying daily. Lots of multiplication and division suggests that means that each EML seat earns, on average $15 per flight. Obviously the amount actually earned from each sale is higher as those seats do not always sell.
Similar analysis across the total number of flights daily suggests that the airline is realizing nearly $400 in additional revenue solely from EML sales per flight. The A320s will be earning much more than that on average, more like $550 based on my calculations, while the E90s are closer to $60 per flight. With an average fare of $140 during 2010 adding this additional revenue is akin to putting 3-4 more passengers on the A320s every time they fly. That’s darn impressive.
Much of the increase in the revenue from EML sales can be attributed to the company’s ability to be much more flexible in the pricing of the upgrades. The variable pricing started only in April 2010 so we can expect that the revenues will be even higher for the carrier next year.
Neither Virgin America (Main Cabin Select) nor United Airlines (Economy Plus) nor Continental (Extra Legroom) break out the revenue they realize for their "premium" economy seats so it is hard to do an apples-to-apples comparison. Still, it is clear that these programs are making money, lots of it.
Customers may not like all the fees out there, but there are absolutely some that they are willing to pay quite readily and the airlines are loving that.
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Posted by Seth on January 27, 2011 under News, TSA |
The Department of Homeland Security is finally going to get rid of their Rainbow Brite security system according to published reports. The system, established to aid in fear-mongering in 2002, was pretty much a waste of time and energy. Now it is being retired.
The system will be replaced in April during a presentation by DHS Secretary Janet Napolitano. The details will be included as part of the first annual "State of America’s Homeland Security" address. Get ready to hear the DHS brag about how they’ve spent billions upon billions and not actually improved security all that much. Should be a great time.
Seriously, though, I’m glad to hear that the DHS is moving towards a system that identifies specific real threats and reacts to those. Here’s hoping they can manage to do it without only being the reactionary fiasco that they have been to date. Deciding 3 days later to ban whatever last month’s attack du jour was doesn’t say much for their foresight.
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Posted by Seth on January 26, 2011 under frequent flyer, News |
Apparently the old adage "Never say never" is ringing true once more: American Airlines is offering some customers the ability to status match to their top (published) tier status, Executive Platinum. The airline generally does not permit such so the news that it is available has some customers previously loyal to other carriers – namely United Airlines – looking more closely at the American offerings.That said, it is not an easy match to hit.
For one thing, American really does challenges, not matches. You cannot simply trade in the old status for new and reap the benefits all year long. Of course, if you really are a high value customer switching airlines – the real purpose of having a status match available – then you’re flying enough to finish the challenge anyways, right? Maybe.
Completing the Executive Platinum challenge requires earning 25,000 Elite Qualifying Points (EQP) in a 90 day span. The catch, of course, is that the EQPs are earnt at different rates based on the fare paid. The cheapest fares only earn at 50% of miles flown which means 50K miles in a 90 day span. I’ve done that a few times and it is definitely possible, but not necessarily recommended unless you REALLY want to make that switch. Oh, and you do have to pay some additional cash to participate in the challenge.
So, yeah, it appears possible, but likely a smart move only for folks with a lot of travel paid for by someone else coming up.
Posted by Seth on January 24, 2011 under News |
The deliberate pacing of the merger between Continental and United Airlines has left many more open questions than it has provided answers for customers. The answers that have come out are mostly being seen by reading between the lines of various announcements the carriers have made rather than based on official statements from the new organization. Little things, like what the new elite status levels will be in the combined frequent flyer program, for example, are only implied rather than stated outright. Sure, we know officially what the paint job will look like and what the operating certificate is for the new company but there are still way more open questions than there are answers out there.
One area in which the two carriers have operated differently historically has been with respect to upgrade policies for their elite members on full fare tickets. Continental has permitted customers on the highest fares to upgrade immediately at the time of ticketing while United has not. United has limited routes with discounted first class fares but they are open to all customers. It was not particularly clear how that policy would be reconciled in the new company until Continental made some adjustments to their fare systems over this past weekend.
Continental has rejiggered much of its fare structure in the past couple days and the discounted B fares are starting to disappear.
LaGuardia – San Jose, CA


Boston – Portland, OR


Sure, that’s just a couple samples, but there are more and the trend is pretty clear: the discounted forward cabin seats are drying up.
The real question that remains is whether there will be any discounted B fares and, if so, whether elites in the new program will be able to immediately upgrade on those discounted B fares is most definitely still up in the air. The fact that the fares are disappearing, however, does not bode well for this benefit.
I’m sure that there will be an actual announcement eventually, but for now things are not looking good on this front.
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Posted by Seth on January 21, 2011 under Book Review, Trip Reports |
Here we and all who shall hereafter live in freedom will be reminded that to these men and their comrades we owe a debt to be paid with grateful remembrance of their sacrifice and with the high resolve that the cause for which they died shall live
Thus reads the inscription at the entrance to the North Africa American cemetery and memorial in Tunisia. Located just outside of Tunis, near Carthage, the cemetery is significant in size and in its impact on visitors. There are 2.841 bodies interred within its walls, each under an incredibly plain white marble marker laid out in perfect alignment. Brothers buried next to each other, at least on Medal of Honor awardee and 240 stones with the incredibly sad phrase, "Here rests in honored glory a comrade in arms known but to God."

Another 3,724 names are engraved along a wall, names of those who perished in the region but who’s bodies were unaccounted for. The cemetery is both a beautiful and incredibly moving reminder of the sacrifices made by these and many thousands more young men during World War 2.

One of the bleached white crosses bears a tiny bit of decoration. Private Nicholas Minue from Careret, NJ, has his headstone embossed with gold paint, the mark of a Medal of Honor recipient.
For distinguishing himself conspicuously by gallantry and intrepidity at the loss of his life above and beyond the call of duty in action with the enemy on 28 April 1943, in the vicinity of MedjezelBab, Tunisia. When the advance of the assault elements of Company A was held up by flanking fire from an enemy machinegun nest, Pvt. Minue voluntarily, alone, and unhesitatingly, with complete disregard of his own welfare, charged the enemy entrenched position with fixed bayonet. Pvt. Minue assaulted the enemy under a withering machinegun and rifle fire, killing approximately 10 enemy machinegunners and riflemen. After completely destroying this position, Pvt. Minue continued forward, routing enemy riflemen from dugout positions until he was fatally wounded. The courage, fearlessness and aggressiveness displayed by Pvt. Minue in the face of inevitable death was unquestionably the factor that gave his company the offensive spirit that was necessary for advancing and driving the enemy from the entire sector.
The battle for North Africa was a roughly six month affair. It was the first major engagement for the Americans in the Atlantic side of the war and it was, in many ways, a great lesson in what not to do when going to battle. The Romans, a group that held this same land thousands of years prior, were incredibly successful in their conquests in large part because of their logistical skills, always able to supply troops with the correct materiel. That was just one of many areas that the Americans and the English fighting along side of them faltered at.
Operation TORCH, the beginning of the campaign, was a massive effort that saw thousands of troops ferried across the Atlantic and deposited on the shores of Morocco and Algeria. Not all the troops even made it on-shore. They were the earliest names recorded on the wall of the missing, those lost at sea before the battle even began. Those who did make it on shore were initially beset by logistical problems that were rather significant. Rather than having 8,700 trucks on the ground in Oran as planned in mid-November there were only 1.800. Officers were spotted wandering around town offering $5,000 in silver for anything resembling a functional truck. Just one of many examples of things not going quite as planned.
Months later the battle was still ongoing. The numbers of dead, injured and imprisoned are staggering. Battle by battle, hill by hill, the soldiers marched on. Underequipped, both in quantity and quality of gear, they nonetheless inched forward (and backwards on occasion). Eventually the victory came, but not without tremendous losses.

The saying goes that history is written by the victors in battle and certainly most history of World War 2 is told that way these days. Stories of the great American battle leaders, names that have been immortalized in our collective conscience, focus on the incredible successes and accomplishments those men achieved. It is rare, for example, to hear a story about Patton that details his inability to effectively command and control his platoons. Similarly rare are the stories of Ike being pilloried as an ineffective, inexperienced and generally confused commander in battle.
But reading back through primary source material, from those commanders and from others around them, the reality is quite clear. They grew quickly as leaders and their tactical skills improved rather impressively, but the initial pains were very real and rather significant. A great telling of the history of the battle comes from Rick Atkinson’s An Army at Dawn. The book is incredibly detailed, including not only the views of the victors but also details from the the German side. Tales from command tents are intertwined with tales from the trenches and the tanks.
Reading of the shortcomings of the commanders, seen by their colleagues, adversaries and partners is definitely and educational and eye-opening experience.
Eisenhower would complain that his ad hoc orders to support the British with American troops ‘were not clearly understood nor vigorously executed.’ To his brother Edgar he confided, ‘I suffer from the usual difficulty that besets the higher commander – things can be ordered and started, but actual execution at the front has to be turned over to someone else.’
At the end of the day the Allies won and eventually things turned out reasonably well, but not without many false starts, blundering snafus and significant casualties. Reading the story and standing on the ground there in Carthage, mourning the fallen soldiers, certainly puts many things in perspective.
More from Tunisia here!
Posted by Seth on January 21, 2011 under News |
Trying to find affordable data packages that work around the globe is more or less a losing battle. Data roaming charges are a cash cow, one that the carriers are loathe to give up. T-Mobile used to have quite a nice plan for their BlackBerry users but suddenly one day that program switched from all data to only covering email. Whoopsie. Sprint and AT&T have had plans that were relatively competitive as well and they’ve actually become more competitive, particularly for the occasional traveler who enjoyed switching the global data plan on and off as they traveled. Leading the pack was Verizon Wireless. They offered unlimited global data for a flat rate that could be switched on and off so the plan was prorated for only the days you needed it. At $65/month it wasn’t the cheapest data package out there but it was incredibly competitive relative to the other options available.
And now it is gone.
Having just returned from Europe I called in to turn off my international plan so as to save a few dollars over the next 3 weeks until I was leaving the country again. I was quite surprised to hear from the agent that if I removed that plan today I would not be able to add it back again. Ever.
There are only two bulk plans available now, $30 and $100 add-ons to the regular data subscription that a customer already has. The amount of data that buys you depends on where you are traveling but the rates are pretty poor. Even worse, the packages only apply for travel to Canada, Mexico, Europe and the Caribbean. Folks visiting Asia, Australia or South America have absolutely no package options anymore. The rates vary in those other countries, from $2/MB up to $20/MB, depending on which plan you are on and where you are.
Here’s the general breakdown of the rates:
| Where? |
How Much Data? |
Monthly |
Overage Costs |
| Canada & Mexico |
75MB |
$30 |
$2/MB Canada
$5/MB Mexico |
| 200MB |
$100 |
| Caribbean & Europe |
25MB |
$30 |
$2/MB Canada
$5/MB Mexico/Europe/Caribbean |
| 75MB |
$100 |
Assuming you are on one of these plans all other countries bill at $2/MB on top of the monthly allowances above. Without those plans you pay $20/MB. So if you’re headed to Thailand you can either pay $20/MB or $30/month + $2/MB. They both suck, though obviously the monthly + usage is a better deal as soon as you get over 1.5MB of usage.
Oh, and you’d better come back to the USA and use some voice and data regularly here, too. If not, your account will be terminated “with cause” by Verizon Wireless:
Note: Verizon Wireless will terminate your service for good cause if less than half of your voice or data usage over three consecutive billing cycles is on the Verizon Wireless National Enhanced Services Rate and Coverage Area.
I’m glad my account happened to be on the old plan and that I didn’t call to cancel the day I returned home. Had I done so I would have been screwed.
UPDATE (23 JAN): Minor update…The rates are actually REALLY bad if you are traveling outside of the above defined regions. Rather than $2/MB it is $20/MB, even if you are on a plan. For folks not grandfathered in to the global plan now is a great time to get the phone unlocked and start researching options for local data plan SIMs around the globe.
Posted by Seth on January 20, 2011 under News |
JetBlue has launched a new promotion for their JetBlue Getaways packages that can result in nearly free vacations for many customers. The deal is pretty straight-forward: $100 off any Getaways booking made between now and January 27, 2011 for travel through September 6, 2011 (the current end of published schedule for the carrier). There is no minimum stay requirement for these deals and with some fares in the $39/49/59 one-way range and some cities having quite cheap hotels this can result in nearly free vacation packages. Long Beach or Burbank to Las Vegas and New York City to upstate are the likely best opportunities out there.
Simply go through the booking process, find the best deal you can and then add promo code getawaytofun to drop $100 off the price.
Not nearly as good as the $300 off from Expedia.ca a couple months back, but still a pretty solid deal.
Happy Jetting!
Posted by Seth on January 20, 2011 under Trip Reports |
As best as I can tell every culture in the world has developed one common dining standard: they all love fried dough covered in sugar. I cannot fault any of them. Whether churros, donuts, beignets, sufganiot or whatever other name it goes by, the glory of these goodies is hard to ignore.
As we walked through the streets of Sidi Bou Saïd on our first afternoon there we happened upon what can only be described as a gaggle of local teens pushing their way to the front of a line in a tiny storefront just off the main tourist square. Not willing to let a good street food opportunity go untapped I pressed in with the masses, hoping that it would be worth the effort.
It was even better than I’d hoped. Crispy on the outside and a bit gooey in the middle, with big sugar crystals that added to the crunch as well as providing most of the flavor.
In Tunisia the fried dough phenomena is known as bombolouni. The operation we happened upon was a three man group churning them out as quickly as the hot oil could just barely get them cooked. Indeed, the frying process was so quick that the bombolouni were actually a bit raw in the middle, something I enjoyed. One guy was forming the rings, the next tending the fryer and the third adding sugar wrapping them in a thin paper to soak up a bit of the oil and pretend that they can insulate your hands from the heat.
It is a tiny operation doing swift business and it was delicious.
More from Tunisia here!