Sony SZ owner? Slow Core Duo? Want a Core 2?

The Sony SZ. Groundbreaking in it’s day, still compelling and a great formfactor. Perhaps you bought one and it’s feeling a little sluggish? Or, maybe you got a great deal on the 1.66 but really wanted the 2.0Ghz or the 2.16. Or for some reason Core Duo isn’t doing it for you anymore and you really want a Core 2 Duo. Have no fear, you CAN upgrade your notebook without (much) fear.  (Warning: LOTS of images after the break)

A few caveats; I only have experience with the SZ1xx series, 2xx series and 3xx series although the 4xx shouldn’t be any different. The SZ6xx series are based upon the Santa Rosa chipset and use different (CHEAPER!) CPUs, but otherwise the process should be identical.   Before you start anything, ENSURE you update the BIOS to the latest revision. Otherwise the computer may fail to recognize the CPU and refuse to boot. This was an VGN-SZ120.

 The first step is to ascertain which CPU you want, and if the cost/benefit even warrants making the change. Look for Socket M processors. If it’s Socket P or Socket 775, or anything else, it’s not gonna work.

NewEgg has a decent selection. Basically the T5xxx and T7xxx series are what you’re looking for, specifically even numbered permutations such as T7200, t7400, etc. T7100, 7300 WILL not work, those are Santa Rosa parts. If you aren’t sure, look for a 667Mhz Front Side Bus. While ordering from NewEgg, you should also get some thermal compound. You only need a VERY small amount; I prefer Arctic Silver, but just about any thermal compound is ok. Just make sure it doesn’t say anything about adhesive! You’ll also need a medium Philips-head screw driver, and a small precision-type flat-head screwdriver.

As long as you’re ordering from NewEgg, it’s a good idea to add memory if you still only have 1gb RAM. RAM is so cheap now that you might as well stuff it with at least 2gb if not 4.  The machine will only see 3 but it still improves performance. The memory you want is 1 or 2 GB PC5400 DDR2-667Mhz in 200 pin SoDIMM factor. There’re two slots, so get two sticks of RAM. I would go with like-sized sticks although it may work with different sizes (E.G. 1 1gb SoDIMM and 1 2gb SoDIMM)

 Once you have the processor in your hands, it’s time to crack open the machine and get medieval on it’s … uh… underbelly! Here’s what it looks like before you start screwing (or, UNscrewing, more literally) with it.

A bit dark, but no worries. Here’s a view of the part you need to unscrew and remove. Note that it’s only four Philips-head screws. Make sure to keep ‘em in a safe place!

And once you lift it off you’ll see the CPU, the socket, and the heatsink. The heatsink is ONLY attached at the CPU by those two Philips-head screws. The radiator portion is not screwed in and rotates out.

Before you do anything else, you must remove the heatsink holder from the CPU. Unscrew the two screws pictured below.

 Once you do, you can then lift the heatsink assembly off. Rotate it counterclockwise as shown before you attempt to remove the heatpipe/heatsink; the radiator portion at the far end must be rotated out. You can’t just pull it straight out. Take this opportunity to clean the thing while you’re at it. If you have a can of compressed air, you might also blow the dust out of the inside of the vent area on the laptop.

Once that’s done, you’ll have a CPU socket staring you in the face.

At this point, unbox the new processor but don’t take it out of it’s inner packaging yet. It will be in a small plastic holder inside a larger plastic package. Remove that outer plastic package.

Take the small flathead screwdriver you have waiting and turn the latch counterclockwise. Once that’s done, you can lift the processor CAREFULLY out by gripping at the edges and gently pulling upward. If you have to use force, you haven’t unlatched the CPU socket and you’re in danger of harming your laptop. Then, place the old CPU in the outer packaging for safekeeping. DON’T THROW AWAY THE NEW CPU HOLDER! You want to put the old CPU back in it for safekeeping once you’re done.

So once you have the CPU out, take the new CPU CAREFULLY by the edges, DO NOT touch the pins. Set it CAREFULLY in the socket, with the gold triangle/arrow pointing to the top right (which also corresponds with the missing pin on the CPU socket. Press gently and it should drop right in. You shouldn’t need to use ANY force at all. Once it’s in, take ye olde trusty flathead screwdriver and turn it clockwise again. The photo shows the socket OPEN. Don’t be a doofus like me and put everything back together while leaving the socket unlocked.

Now, it’s time to apply some thermal grease to the CPU and put the heatsink back, but before you do, you need to clean the heatsink and remove the old thermal material. Rubbing alcohol works fine for this. Here’s what it should look like when you’re done.

Apply a THIN line of Arctic Silver 5, or whatever Thermal Compound you prefer. Apply it horizontally (parallel with the text at the bottom), at the midpoint across the width of the CPU die. Don’t apply a ton of compound as this can actually impede heat transfer. If you wish, you can spread the compound around using the tip of the dispenser. I simply reattached the heatsink and allowed it to distribute the compound.

So, now you reinsert the radiator portion of the heatsink and rotate the assembly back into position.

You can then reattach the heatsink to the CPU, screw it down, replace the cover, turn it on, and this is what should greet you!