Part 2 of 11.

1/2: Introduction

1. Singapore Airlines (SQ) First Class from JFK to Frankfurt (FRA), plus the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse at JFK;

2. Arrival at FRA, Lufthansa Euro Business class FRA – Istanbul (IST);

3. Arrival in Istanbul, Turkish Airlines (TK) business class IST – Tashkent (TAS), plus, early morning arrival in Tashkent;

4. Day 1 in Tashkent;

5. Day 2 in Tashkent;

6. Day 3 in Tashkent, plus the lowdown on Tashkent’s metro system;

7. Turkish Airlines Business Class TAS – IST, IST – Berlin (TXL), plus TK lounge in IST;

8. Berlin, Day 1;

9. Berlin, Day 2;

10. TXL – Zurich (ZRH) – FRA in Swiss Air Euro Business class, plus arrival in FRA; and

11. Lufthansa First Class Terminal and Lufthansa First Class, FRA – JFK.

*  *  *  *  *

Just as I was drifting off to a wonderful slumber in that comfy Singapore Airlines (SQ)  flat bed, I felt an a flight attendant (FA), gently shaking me awake, in preparation for landing. No, I thought, just 11 more hours, or so. It couldn’t be time for landing already – I was just getting to sleep. (Note: I really thought the SQ flat bed was top notch, for the primary reason that the seat design does not narrow near your feat, and you have ample space to spread out. In United’s old first class seat, I couldn’t sleep on my stomach, because of how uncomfortable it was to have to cross my legs and sleep with the cramped footspace. Yeah, yeah, I’m bitching about footroom in international first class, but, hey juts trying to be objective here).

I reluctantly awoke, managing to sit up, and stare bleary eyed around the cabin. I felt like I had just engaged in a night of debauchery, as if someone was playing xylophone on my brain, and with that horrendous stale booze taste in my mouth. I was too hot in the cabin, as well, and I could tell that soon I would begin sweating leftover alcohol. FAs passed through the cabin with glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice (how did I know it was freshly squeezed? I recognized a bizarrely “real” orange flavor when I tried it, and was utterly surprised not to experience the “concentrate” flavor of United’s orange juice). I downed a glass, hoping the acid would quell some of boozy breath, and then slumped back in my seat. I definitely was not feeling my hottest.

I began to gather my bedding and fold it, and was immediately rebuffed by the SQ FAs. Another difference from United – the FAs on SQ, are glad to help with things like folding up bedding, because they, um, consider it their, uh, jobs, unlike United’s first class, when passengers practically have to become their own flight attendants and police the cabin themselves. I changed out of pajamas, much to the profuse apologies of an FA, because I had to change in a Business class lavatory – the utter horror and disgrace! I immediately sat down to pen an angry letter to SQ’s management, to let them know that was unacceptable, and that my trip was ruined.

I sat back in my seat, and watched the approach over the German countryside, feeling pained and hungover. Something that always cracked me up about catching a morning flight or connection in Europe is that there were always two or three people who absolutely stank of liquor, all probabaly coming from the nachtklub, or something, where they drank 18 Euro drinks, sleazed on cute Danish women, and somehow made it to the airport in time for their morning flight, ears still pulsating with that oh-so-wonderfully annoying techno bass. Yup, that was going to be me, but without the nightclub or Danish chicks.

Despite my impaired state, I managed to remain glued to the window. FRA is my favorite airport in Europe, and after SFO, my favorite in the world. Though, as many people complain, it’s terminal layouts are long, and connections often inconvenient (I once spent 30 minutes, or so, walking through a bewildering network of parking garage like connections to catch a connecting Lufthansa flight), I absolutely love the diversity of airplanes, airlines, and routes, the motley collections of people from all over the world, and that simple endemic Euro feel to the airport. In the last two years, I’ve spent so much time in FRA, that I feel like I’ve come to know the airport quite well.

After an early landing, which, I knew meant we were going to be delayed trying to park at the gate, our Australian captain summarily announced that we would be delayed trying to park at the gate. He kept us very well informed, with a wonderful hint of exasperation in his voice at the proceedings. Apparently, an Air Canada 777 was parked at our gate, and was ready for pushback, when, they decided to offload a missing passenger’s luggage. The delay stretched on for about 25 minutes, with the captain making announcements every so often, refering the culprits as, “The Canadians.” “Now, the Canadians have their luggage hold open . . . Now, the Canadians are taking off the passenger’s bag.” The 777 finally pushed back, and we rolled to the gate.

Overall, SQ impressed, and wonderfully so. Based on what I had heard from others and read, I had hyped my expectations enormously, and SQ had met them very well. The airline does set the standard for international first class, not making passengers feel like a burden for their presence, with FAs not acting as if they exist primarily for safety, and you getting a cup of water is a bonus. After flying United so much, and trying their international first class, which, was comfortable, but, the FAs possessed nowhere near the attention to detail, and moreover, the ability of SQ’s FAs to work assiduously to make sure each passenger had a full first class experience. I was sad to leave, and sad that “the magic figure” for the flight had been so short. It also would’ve been nice to sleep off my hangover a bit in that very nice flat bed.

Needing a shower and some electrolytes, I quickly tromped around, looking for a Lufthansa Senator lounge. After a bit, I found my favorite one, up the stairs, near passport control, and near the Lufthansa mega-service center.

I had worried about not being able to gain entrance into the Senator lounges, knowing the rigidness of Lufthansa’s lounge dragons, and knowing that I had not yet received my 1K card from United this year. Despite the fact I had “UA *G” printed on my boarding pass, Lufthansa lounge agents always demand to see a card for confirmation. This case was no exception – the lounge dragon demanded to see a card, but, surprisingly, after showing her the two expired Star Alliance Gold cards, she waved me in. Apparently, Lufthansa just wants to see a card, any card, kind of like those liquor store owners who don’t care if you use a fake ID – they just want to see a card, any card, for legal purposes. Gotta love Lufthansa.

Moreover, just as some people despise FRA, many people despise the Lufthansa Senator lounges. I absolutely adore them. Yes, they’re often very crowded, have few power outlets to charge a laptop, unless you want to sit in the bathroom and use the plug next to shoe buffer, and have no complimentary wireless internet, but, I think they are just wonderful. The chairs (when you can get one) are comfortable, the food selection is vast a declicious, and the beverage selection enormous. I could hang out in one for hours (I’ve done that before!) Plus, all the Senator lounges at FRA feature wonderful views of the apron/tarmac, so one can enjoy the incredible selection of airlines and air traffic at FRA (does anyone love a Vietnam Airlines 777 as much as I do?)

I took a shower, which, amazingly, had no lines. Usually, the lines in the Senator lounges for shower stretch all the way to Karlsruhe, but, there was no line today. After the shower, and a change of clothes, I felt a bit more human. I plunked my suitcase and backpack by a chair, and helped myself to three gallons of water, and some various food offerings.

I ate, had some coffee, and waited to check my e-mail. The Senator lounges only have two computers to use, and thus, they are in hot demand. I checked on wireless prices, and was astounded to see that wireless cost almost 18 Euros for daily access. Yeah, right, Lufthansa!

I then made my way to the gate for my flight to Istanbul. I love Lufthansa’s boarding process. Basically, they make one announcement, and literally, ever passengers stampedes to the gate, with a shoot-to-kill look in their eyes, pushing other passengers out of the way, and hoping to trample a few in the meantime.

Lufthansa German Airlines 3342, FRA – IST
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Departure (Scheduled): 1.10pm, Frankfurt Time
Arrival: (Scheduled): 4.55pm,  Istanbul Time
Equipment: Airbus A321-200
Seat: 6A

I funneled myself into the boarding frenzy, onto the bus to the airlplane. Chances are, if you depart from FRA, your flight will be parked on a remote parking stand, and you’ll have to take a bus to get there. While most people think it’s extremely incovenient, and, sometimes it is, most of the time, I absolutely love sharing the roads with taxiing airplanes, and boarding from the airstairs. It makes me feel like I’m one of The Beatles, boarding my own private airplane. Some shots on the apron:

Upon boarding, I was greeted by a very friendly set of flight attendants. I absolutely love Lufthansa – every flight I’ve had with them has been very pleasant, and the FAs have been very kind. I love how they say, “boarding computed” before closing the door, and then wish the passengers, “a very pleasant stay on board.” That encouragment is second only to JetBlue’s “Hope you enjoy the experience” announcement. It seemed like a good crew today. I orginall had seat 2F. but, at the request of a very old man, who, to be honest, didn’t look as if he was going to make it through the flight, I switched seats so he could sit next to his wife. I ended up in the last row of the Business Class, which, remember, are economy class seats and spacing with a blocked middle seat.

After a bit of a delay, we taxied quickly, and roared into the sky, though the Airbus can’t quite accelerate like Boeing jets can (I said it. Bring it on). Flight attendants began with a round of drinks. I ordered a sparkling water and, something I only do on Lufthansa, a tomato juice. For some reason, Lufthansa does tomato juice like no other instituion in the world, and I love the way, for some reason, they always ask if you want it with salt and pepper. The FA serving was extremely peppy, with a smile so wide it seemed to be stapled into her cheeks. I wondered if she had put a few tabs of ecstasy in her coffee. Everything she said seemed to be worthy of so much wonder and enthusiasm, whether it was asking about duty-free shopping, or explaining the lunch choices.

Flight attendants then served, lunch, without menus, and the choices were chicken, fish, and the economy class meal (?), which worried me a bit, if they were offering the economy meal over any of the Euro Biz offerings. Each meal came with a pre-plated set of appetisers, and dessert. I had the chicken.

Goodness gracious, this meal was awful! I should’ve had the pasta from economy class. The chicken, which, looked like an economy class meal, was overly salty, and the green olives overpowering. The hummus, I guess it was, next to the shrimp was simply sawdust mixed with water, and the, uh, couscous, I suspect, had no flavor at all. The dessert was some sort of gelatinous mass, I’m guessing from the slime mold family, glued to a plate next that zigzag of what looked like French’s mustard. I was happy to have eaten in the lounge, and was thus not very hungry. I only picked at it, unfortunately, wasting most of it.

I had been chatting with my seatmate, whose name I never found out, but, because he looked like a Mike, I’ll call him Mike. Mike was a very nice American dude, an environmental consultant to the UN, on his way to a water usage conference in Istanbul. It was both of our first times in Lufthansa’s Euro Business class, and though the meal was terrible, we both enjoyed the experience (he actually ate the dessert, too). We swapped travel stories, and he made some excellent travel reccomendations (I’m planning for Mongolia next).

With about 30 minutes left of flight, I took a power nap, and awoke upon descent into IST.

(Arrival at IST, plus conclusions on Lufthansa’s Euro Business class will be in the segment).